Learning the SPRAT Curriculum:  Re-anchors

Written by Josh Delefortrie | Nov 18, 2019 11:10:00 PM

In order to avoid a hazard, achieve an easier access point, increase the efficiency of your equipment, and mitigate rope weight and elongation, a secondary set of anchors may be installed on your rope system below the primary anchors. This is a re-anchor (aka a short re-belay). Wide re-anchors are commonly referred to as a ‘loop’.

Both double-anchor deviations and re-anchors can be used to avoid a hazard, but re-anchors are the safer option if your primary anchors are placed at a wide angle. Unlike a deviation, a re-anchor cannot easily be rigged for rescue. 

During your SPRAT evaluation, ALL LEVELS (*see below if you're a L3) will be asked to demonstrate competence passing a re-anchor in both ascent and descent modes. You will be passing intermediate fixed anchorage systems that adjust the fall line of a two-rope system by more than 2 m. 

As a rule, as long as the horizontal span of your anchorage system is 2m or more, your sag minimum should equal half of that distance. For a horizontal span that is less than 2m, your sag minimum will rest at 1m. These sag minimums allow you to generate the necessary angle (90 degrees or shallower) from the fall line of each set of anchors when at the midpoint of this maneuver. 

On assessment day, your SPRAT Evaluator will be watching to make sure that you:

  •  Protect against an out-of-control swing, by maintaining the appropriate number of attachment points. Similar to a rope-to-rope transfer, two backup devices may be required (for a total of 4 attachment points).
  • Avoid pulling the rope from below the anchorages across the area as you're passing the re-anchor. 
  • Maintain the required amount of sag in your line.
  • Demonstrate an awareness of how to negotiate and return back through a point.

There are several similarities between wide re-anchors and rope-to-rope transfers. You may consider similar rigging and work practices for both.

There is no single way to perform this maneuver and multiple techniques will be okay with your Evaluator, so long as they are performed safely and using best practices.

Most Common Discrepancies to Avoid:

  1. Ground ropes brought across towards the destination of the two-rope system during the transfer.
  2. Loading your ascender at the lowest point of the re-anchor. (The bottom of the loop)
  3. Completing the maneuver using only your chest ascender (w/backup), off plumb from near anchorage systems >20° *Don't forget your hand ascender!
  4. Rigging both your main and backup ropes to the same anchorage system (fail)
  5. Do not have a backup system for far anchorage systems, off plumb from near anchor set >20° (fail)

Remember, that a small out-of-control swing is considered a minor discrepancy, and a large out-of-control swing (that could hurt yourself, others, or cause damage to equipment) is a major discrepancy – ie. an automatic fail.

Additional resources to check out

7.12 of the SPRAT Evaluation Guidelines for the source material for this blog.

7.12 of the SPRAT Certification Requirements for a concise evaluation summary. 

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This is part of an ongoing series, where we’re breaking down the SPRAT Syllabus and clarifying exactly what will be expected of you on your evaluation day. To continue exploring this series and learn more about SPRAT's Technician Evaluation Form, please click below: 
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